FUME BY FH

ARTISAN AROMATICS

GLOSSARY OF KEY INGREDIENTS

Listed in alphabetical order of common terms.

Latin names and form of the ingredients are also found here (please scroll down).

  • BAOBAB                               

  • BENZOIN

  • BEES WAX (MOUNTAIN)

  • BORONIA

  • CARNATION

  • COPAIBA

  • JOJOBA

  • LABDANUM

  • OUD (CHINESE)

  • PINK LOTUS

  • PORCHINI MUSHROOM

  • RED FIR

  • ROSEHIP

  • ROSEWOOD

  • SAFFRON

  • SANDALWOOD (MYSORE)

  • SPIKENARD

  • TAMANU

  • TONKA BEAN

  • WHITE MAGNOLIA

  • YARROW

BAOBAB Adonsonia digitata, Zimbabwe, Oil

Nutrient rich Baobab is a light weight oil known for keeping skin hydrated and moisturised by maintaining a healthy skin barrier. The high antioxidant content (vitamins C and E as well as A, D and F) repair skin barrier function whilst also rejuvenating damaged skin cells keeping skin soft, springy and supple. Anti-inflammatory properties (essential fatty acids) reduce inflammation, support scar healing and nourish skin without clogging pores.

The Baobab tree is often known as the “tree of life” due to its extraordinary longevity, ethnobotanical importance and unique ability to store water in unusual barrel like trunks and survive the driest of dry seasons. Baobab trees are sacred symbols of resistance, life and nourishment in Africa and Australia where it grows. There is a sacred Baobab tree in Namibia which is estimated to be 1,275 years old.

BENZOIN Styrax tonkinensis, Thailand, Absolute

Benzoin has astringent, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory properties to balance and support biome, calm and soothe irritation, tighten and firm skin.

Benzoin is the resin of the Styrax tonkinensis tree. The resin seeps from channels within the trunk to mend deep lacerations to the tree. Sweet, soft, powdery and comforting the aroma of Benzoin aligns with its ability to soothe and heal skin just as it heals the wounds in the tree. Anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties make it the most spectacular resin to support the microbiome of the skin and support skin to optimum condition. As an astringent it tightens and tones, minimising the appearance of fine surface lines on the skin.

Repairing skin at a dermal level it is proven to significantly increase levels of two of the skins protein’s, collagen and elastin in the dermal fibroblasts, elevating levels of fibronectin in keratinocytes Benzoin helps to improve overall elasticity and firmness whilst specifically minimising scar tissue formation. Whilst recent scientific studies confirm the topical wound healing potential of Benzoin, it has been recognised since ancient times when it was used to treat wounds, blisters and cracked, painful skin.

BEES WAX (MOUNTAIN) Cera alba, Spain, Wax

The beeswax in FUME BY FH products is carefully sourced from local family-owned hives and happy bees high up in the Spanish mountains. Passionate about bees and their welfare, the honey is harvested by hand and with ultimate consideration, respect and love for the bees. The beeswax is wild, pure and raw. Although beeswax is commonly used it still seems to be somehow incredibly underrated in skincare – often with a massively uninformed view that it will clog your skin, when actually the opposite is true! Naturally antimicrobial Beeswax repairs and restores the skin microbiome and barrier. It is also inherently anti-inflammatory and is proven to soothe eczema, psoriasis and inflammatory skin conditions (Waili, 2003). It has the ability to balance biome and help reduce acne without clogging pores in any way. Full of esters (which match those of human skin) and fatty acids Beeswax is extremely beneficial to skin both as a protective occlusive and humectant - it is deeply nourishing, softening and re-texturising to all skin, keeping skin moisturised and hydrated. Rich in antioxidants Beeswax reconditions, regenerates, soothes and protects. There still seems to be a residual fear that using beeswax will somehow block pores and worsen breakouts, and yet nothing is further from the truth. Beeswax supports all skin to health, soothing inflammatory skin conditions to recovery and nurturing maturing skin. When it comes to FUME BY FH products you can be assured that the quality of the Beeswax used is superior, the bees are well cared for and the amount of Beeswax used in each individual product is carefully balanced by Fiona in all her formulations.

BORONIA Boronia megastigma, Australia, Absolute

Very, very rare, expensive and luxurious Boronia absolute is not simply prized for its beautiful fruity, floral scent but also because it contains natural ionones and large amounts of (UV reversing) B-ionones. B-ionones have proven anti-carcinogenic activity activity. It helps to reverse and prevent sun and environmental damage to the skin, as well as being beneficial to inflammatory skin conditions such as acne.

CARNATION Dianthus caryophyllus, Egypt, Absolute

This is a high quality Carnation to add a firework explosion of gorgeous heady floral freshness combined with a rich earthiness with a background of wood smoke. Therapeutically it’s deeply conditioning to the skin, helping to reduce surface wrinkles as well as easing physical tensions in facial muscles. Soothes mental anxiety and helps to get rid of negative feelings.

COPAIBA Copaifera offinalis, Brazil, Essential Oil and Balsam

Both the essential oil and balsam can be found in FH02 scent range of skincare products. Considered by many to have superior effect on the skin to CBD, there are two different forms of Copaiba found in FH02 range of skincare, the balsam and essential oil. It has the highest levels of the powerful inflammatory moderator, B-caryophyllene (BCP). BCP is a molecule that interacts with the cannabinoid receptors in the skin. This causes skin to produce beta-endorphin, which increase cell proliferation as well as feelings of well-being and decreasing perceptions of pain.

High levels of powerful inflammatory moderator B-caryophyllene (BCP) present in Copaiba directly interacts with cannabinoid receptors in the skin (known as CB2 receptors and located in the central nervous system - a key part of the endocannabinoid system which regulates processes of the body) to effectively modify and dramatically reduce cutaneous inflammation. Whereas CBD has indirect metabolic interactions in order to influence the CB2 receptors Copaiba directly affects them. Thus, Copaiba lends itself to balancing skin flora, supporting the wound healing processes of the body and offering relief from the soreness, itching and discomfort that can accompany uncomfortable inflammatory skin conditions.

JOJOBA Simmondsia chinensis, Israel, Wax (referred to as an ‘oil’)

A molten, golden liquid made from the cold pressed seeds of a desert shrub; Jojoba ‘oil’ is actually a wax. Given Jojoba is commonly referred to as an oil, to avoid confusion, it is referred to throughout the FUME BY FH brand as an oil even though it is technically a wax.

Rich in antioxidants (vitamins and minerals) and anti-inflammatory fatty acids Jojoba is balancing for all skin and will not clog pores, even on the most complex and challenging skin. If you are worried about skin being clogged by oil then this is perfect to dissolve your preconceptions as you see your skin clear with continued use of Jojoba, finding its own optimum health and balance. This is because Jojoba oil has the same chemical molecular structure as the natural wax esters in the skin. Our skin’s sebum contains 30% of these wax esters and as Jojoba is the only known plant source of these specific esters Jojoba is able to replace lost esters as the skin recognises Jojoba esters as its own. It is these wax esters which are responsible for keeping skin cells plump and healthy. Our skin loses esters as we age, so this an especially unique and valuable quality of Jojoba oil. It also means that Jojoba is ideal for treating the over-production of sebum (oily/acne prone skin) as well as the under-production (maturing, dry/eczema/psoriasis).

 LABDANUM Cistus criticus, Crete, Oleresin

Commonly known as Labdanum, Rock or Pink Rocky rose this historically rich and complex oleoresin supports complex and challenging skin back to health. Clearing, soothing and firming Labdanum is an ancient therapeutic ally. Its broad and interesting microbial profile makes it efficient at helping to balance the skin natural biome barrier as the antimicrobial sesquiterpenes and diterpenes do not target healthy cells. It also has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-rheumatic This makes it especially beneficial for acne, skin ulcers, rashes, eczema and psoriasis. Labdanum has a wide-ranging positive effect tightening and toning skin, regenerating tired and maturing skin, soothing inflammation and complex, challenging skin.

OUD (CHINESE) Aquilaria sinensis, China, Essential Oil

A blissful, rare Oud. The depths to this Chinese Oud are first masked with sparkling sweet and light opening notes. At once refreshing and fruity, woody and floral all the aromatic complexities are rich in diverse therapeutic effects for skin, body, mind and soul.

Oud is a natural tonic restoring exuberance and lustre to all skin. It has antioxidant, antimicrobial, analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties. These help to firm and smooth out visible creases on skin by boosting collagen synthesis and healthy cell production; surface microbiome and the skins natural barriers are supported and balanced with inflammatory signals such as redness, discolouration and puffiness reduced. The production of sebum is moderated and skin is protected against infection triggering microbes including acne with acne diminished and their irritation calmed.

Oud is also renowned for being highly psychoactive lifting spirits, soothing nervous systems, easing mental stresses and bestowing inner peace and a sense of euphoria.

Adored for its shape-shifting aromatic complexity Oud is known for its animalic foundations, known as “barnyard”. The quality of the barnyard aroma is one part of aroma that defines the quality of the Oud.

The Chinese Oud used in this skin salve is one of the least animalic, or rather the most perfectly balanced, with a gentle faint hint of slight bitterness and the tiniest touch of barnyard. Just enough to offset the inherent sweetness and ensure the animalic lure of the Oud, so esteemed and so undeniably and ancestrally appealing to our innate human nature, remains present and our raw sensory desires are satisfied at their deepest levels. This Oud retains its essential animalic quality in the softest beeswaxy, honeyed, barely-there and pitch-perfect kind of a way. To me, rather than the stables of the barn it instead reminds me of opening an old book and finding the pages smell of times long past - all at once sweet, sun-baked memories whilst also promising something of a continuum into the future. Soft musky paper with hints of leather and forgotten dreams.

Most valued in the Middle East, but increasingly recognised and popular in the West, the wood chips either sold as incense, with the smoke used to perfume skin, clothes, homes and sacred spaces or further distilled into an essential oil, such as the one used in this skin salve, which can be sold for as much as €80,000 per litre. Hence Oud is known as “liquid gold”. Sadly, overproduction now means that all varieties of Aquilaria tree are classified as critically endangered. Fiona uses only sustainably sourced Oud from small, reputable Oud suppliers.

PINK LOTUS Nelumbo nucifer, India, Absolute

Pink lotus draws out the initial ripe fruitiness and earthy richness of the Oud whilst adding an almost indescribable shimmer. An oil revered since ancient times as symbol of love, enlightenment and rebirth this sacred oil is enchanting and often referred to as a ‘sweet pink nirvana’. Therapeutically in relation to the skin it is astringent and anti-inflammatory improving texture and condition. Rich in flavonoids and polysaccharides it has an antioxidant effect helping to defuse the harmful effects of free radicals in the skin.

PORCINI MUSHROOM Boletus edolis, Italy, Absolute

An exceptional quality Porcini, like the smoothest, intense dark chocolate with mushroomy depths and subtle white floral highs the absolute itself has a skin-like dry down. These ancient microorganisms have so many incredible, scientifically proven positive effects on the skins microbiome and barrier. Not only helping to restore the microbiotica via active polysaccharides and phnolic compounds, it also has an anti-glycation effect on the skin, which makes it great for treating overly ageing skin. It helps to minimise the cellular damage of free radicals as Porcini mushrooms have a very high antioxidant content (rich in zinc, selenium, manganese, vitamins D and C). This means it’s good for inflammatory skin conditions (i.e. hyper-pigmentation, acne, rosacea etc.) linoleic acid in this most appreciated of mushrooms strengthens the skins lipid barrier, promoting cellular turnover and helping to more effectively keep hydration in the tissue.

RED FIR Picea abies, Norway, Resin

This is stunningly beautiful, purply-pink resin is easy to fall in love with especially when you are party to its incredible therapeutic skin qualities.  A 2016 study found that the ability for it to efficiently treat chronic wounds was “indisputable” (Jokinen et al 2016). It has components to enhance the skin re-epithelisation and is good for acne, skin infections and the overall reconditioning of skin (Rautio et al 2007).

ROSEWOOD Aniba rosaeofora, India, Essential Oil and Dalbergia odorifera, China, Essential Oil

Two utterly divine very special sweet, rosy heartwoods to bring breezy florals and sparkling citrus blossom lightness. Both Rosewoods used here in FH02 range of products add so much more than the blissfully tingly, lemony, refreshment of the scent. These are two powerhouses for the skin and help to smooth fine lines, soften and reduce the appearance of scars, balance both oily and dry skin, support healing cell regeneration. Regular and consistent use of Rosewood slows down visible signs of skin ageing and helps to prevent acne and blemishes with its antimicrobial actions. Historically Rosewood has been overproduced and as such it is now a rare and precious oil. Rosewood is very rare due to previous over-harvesting. Please be assured both Rosewoods used here are ethically and sustainably farmed.

SAFFRON Crocus sativus, Iran, Whole

Saffron is the precious, dried stigmas and tops of the styles of the Crocus flower. Renowned for its therapeutic effect on the skin, Saffron’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities have been scientifically demonstrated (Fagot, Pham et al 2018). It is the combination of these antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties which have a powerful effect on the skin scavenging free radicals and promoting oxygen diffusion through tissues. Saffron helps protect skin against harmful UV-induced peroxidation, preventing the release of inflammatory mediators. As a result, Saffron helps to even skin tone, reducing discolouration and improving overall skin condition.

Saffron has a delicately fragrant, sweet and earthy scent. Known as “red gold” in the ancient world the deep colour believed to embody the energy of sun and contain the secret to immortality. The pharmacological activity of this plant has been revered for at least four millennia (Rhind, 2014) and Saffron has been used a spice, medicine, psychotropic, aphrodisiac and perfume. It was said to the scent the lush, paradise gardens of the desert fort of Jaipur.

ROSEHIP Rosa canina, Chile, Oil

Well known as the “fountain of youth” Rosehip is proven to soothe inflammatory skin conditions, repair the skin’s barrier, increase elasticity, regenerate tissues and cells, even skin tone and reduce dark circles (Phetcharate et al 2015; Lin et al 2018).  Rosehip oil is extracted from the freshly pruned rosehips. The fruits including seeds, known as ‘hips’ are dried and the oil is extracted without intentional heat. Rosehip oil has a beautifully fine texture and does not leave behind an oily residue. It is a powerful cicatrisant (promotes healing by the formation of scar tissue) and anti-inflammatory due to its high content of the fatty acids Linoleic and Linolenic which maintain skin softness, suppleness and radiance (Valeron-Almazan 2015). The cleansing properties of Stearic acid help to purge dirt, sweat and excess sebum whilst the dynamic antioxidant properties include, but are not limited to, Oleic acid, vitamin A and the highest vitamin C content among horticultural crops, fruits and vegetables help to fuel collagen production boosting skins resilience and quality. Specifically, Rosehip is known to inhibits the production of MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks down collagen in the skin, improving skin plumpness (Phetcharate et al 2015). 

ROSE GERANIUM Pelargonium graveolens var. roseum, South Africa, Essential Oil

Sweet, rosy and herbaceous Rose geranium acts as an astringent to skin, tightening and toning. It is this conditioning effect that helps to minimise surface crêpyness. Inflammatory moderators bring relief to fragile, inflamed skin, helping to reduce symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions such as uneven skin tone and the discolouration of hyper-pigmentation, eczema, psoriasis and the dermal manifestations of rheumatoid arthritis, as well as internal inflammation itself (Maruyama et al 2006; Boukhatem et al 2014; Rhind 2014). Rose geranium helps to support and balance the microbiome (flora) of the skin with its ability to act as a microbial and bacterial moderator. It has good antiseptic properties which also help to reduce skin irritation. Rose geranium is a beautiful rose-floral essence which uplifts our mood and positively enhances how we feel about ourselves.

SANDALWOOD (MYSORE) Santalum album, Mysuru (Mysore), India, Essential Oil

Mysore* sandalwood brings a delicate, dreamy understated softness as only this elegant, creamy, airy wood from this area of India can do. Another ingredient acknowledged as being one of the most expensive and rare, this Sandalwood from Mysore is carefully and ethically sourced. It has a warmth and distinction almost unsurpassed in natural perfumery and aromatherapy and one which comes into its own here, matched with this Oud. With a particularly high sesquiterpene content this Sandalwood has powerful therapeutic effect on the skin helping to improve the healing of scars, and generally calming and assisting skin repair. Mysore Sandalwood nurtures skin back to a clear and radiant luminosity.

*The region of India where this Sandalwood is from is officially called Mysuru. However, in perfumery sandalwood from this very specific area of India is referred to as Mysore Sandalwood and it is considered to be the most special and the most revered. Unfortunately, it was consistently over farmed and production is now extremely controlled. As a result Mysore Sandalwood is very rare and consequentially, expensive.

SPIKENARD Nardostachys jatamansi, Nepal, Essential Oil

Pungent, complex, warm and earthy Spikenard has a mellifluous, mellow, sweet, woody, spicy fragrance. It has the alchemic ability to transform a layered per[FUME] into something very special. Therapeutically Spikenard eases inflammation, helping to even out skin tone, reduce redness and irritation. Antibacterial, antifungal and general all round microbial balancing activity means it is recognised as able to rebalance inflammatory skin irritations such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis.

TAMANU Caulophyllum inophyllum, Madagascar, Oil

This green, unctuous, earthy, nutty oil has a potent antibacterial effect against the bacteria involved in skin infections and is most active against both Propionibacterium (the specific P-bacteria involved in acne). This means it is a powerful oil to significantly reduce acne breakouts and inflammation. All of its anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and antioxidant qualities help acne, psoriasis, skin allergies, rheumatism and irritation. It is proven to accelerate wound healing with two distinct antibacterial effects; both directly inhibiting mitotic growth and also against Gram—bacteria due to the increased release of B-defensin 2pepite by macrophages (Léguillier et al 2015). Rich in antioxidants and fatty acids Tamanu is also shown to promote the proliferation of certain cells including collagen glycosaminoglycan (GAGs), which are important for wound and scar healing. It is has a diverse ethnomedical legacy of being used medicinally for hundreds of years in parts of Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands.

TONKA BEAN Dipteryx odorata, Brazil, Absolute.

Warm and sweet with hay-like creaminess Tonka Bean is profoundly comforting and consoling. Containing unique compounds which have potent anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties, studies have shown Tonka Bean to have “anti-ageing function”* as well as helping to significantly reduce edema, supporting lymphatic health, regulate cellular renewal and be “good maintenance therapy in case of melanoma (skin cancer)”* (Rohini, K 2014*).

WHITE MAGNOLIA Alba Michelia, China, Essential Oil

The sparkling fruity crispness of this White Magnolia is traditionally used to promote circulation, especially in peripheral blood vessels in the skin. It helps to increase the elasticity in skin, stimulate new cell regeneration, prevent scarring and support both healthy inflammatory responses and microbiotica. High Linalool content quietens and quells skin, mind and nervous system as linalool is soothing and calming.

YARROW Achillea millefolium, Italy, Essential Oil

Herbal softness, dried grasses, country verges and wide, open fields on a summer’s day. Yarrow brings a gently lift, floral space and an inky blue herbaceous undertone.  Yarrow is one of the most ancient essences used in treating the skin. Especially good for treating every skin condition where inflammation and sensitivity are present such as acne as well as rheumatoid arthritis. The therapeutic potential a and b pinenes mean it has been described as “a miracle gift of nature” for the skin (Saleti et al 2019). Yarrow helps protect again microbial skin infections, improves saggy and loosening skin and muscle tone and is especially good for healing scarring after acne, boils, blemishes and skin wounds. Yarrow is deeply soothing and restorative for all skin prone to being sensitive, problematic and rebellious.